Category Archives: Travel Tales

My favorite hobby. I would travel all the time if I could afford it. My goal is to visit all 50 US states and most continents (if not countries) in my lifetime. I’m ambitious like that.

April 6, 2012 · 6:55 AM

In Search of Bluebonnets

It’s wildflower season in Texas, which means bluebonnets and Indian paintbrush and all of their colorful friends have come out to play. One of the most scenic drives in the Houston area is called the Texas Independence Trail and last weekend, The Complete Package and I grabbed Ziggy and hit the trail. Here’s a glimpse of what we saw along the way. A little piece of Texas, just for you.

I love this fun tractor mailbox. I want to ride it into the sunset and just keep going. It reminds me of ‘Mater from the Cars movies, which just makes it that much more fun. Remember how they’d sneak up on tractors and honk, and the tractors would moo and then fall over backwards? I love that part.

Speaking of fun, we had a fabulous time getting lost on back roads all day just taking in the sights and doing whatever we wanted. It was so relaxing. The Complete Package thinks we were about 2 weeks early for full blooms, so there’s a good chance we’ll be getting lost in the Texas Hill Country again in a few weeks. If we do, I’ll keep you posted. Between last year’s drought and this spring’s rains, it’s expected to be a bumper crop. Stay tuned!

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January 30, 2012 · 10:39 AM

A Monday Mystery: Galveston’s (In)Famous Phantom Face

Monday. I’m not a big fan. It’s usually laundry day. Sometimes, I resent Monday because it means my weekend is officially over. So to perk things up, I thought I’d share this little ditty and start your week off by giving you something to chew on. A Monday mystery, so to speak. Ready to get your ‘creep’ on?

This mystery takes place in Galveston, a city rich in history and local lore. One such tale involves Ewing Hall at the University of Texas Medical Branch (UTMB). Legend has it the original land owner left this coveted parcel of Galveston Island real estate to his family with one important condition – that it be kept in the family and never sold. Upon his death, his children promptly sold the land. (Kids!) Years later, this building was constructed as part of the University of Texas medical center campus.

Ewing Hall at UTMB in Galveston - an unassuming facade, for sure.

Here’s where the creep factor comes in. Inexplicably, a phantom face began to appear on the exterior of the building. Look at the photo above. Can you see it? Look at the center of the building, just above the dark door. Here’s a closer look:

UTMB's Phantom Face - Can you see him now?

See him now? Hovering over the black door? That’s the guy. Our mystery man. Legend has it he is the original land owner. The one who requested his land never be sold. The one who supposedly was so distraught by his family’s betrayal that he appeared on the exterior of the building and has been there ever since.

But it gets spookier. See how he appears in the third panel down from the roof? Well, that’s not where he started. Originally, he appeared in the top panel two squares up from where he is now. When he appeared, it caused a stir and the building’s owners had him sandblasted off the building. And then he returned in the next square down, on the second row, where he was again sandblasted away. And now? Now he’s back on the third row, where he remains to this day.

The phantom's final resting place, or so the legend goes.

If you look closely, you can see that the first and second panels appear to have been sandblasted. The pebbled sandy texture of the panels is gone when compared to the rest of the building. So could the legend be true? Could the place be haunted by a phantom as a reminder to his family that their betrayal is neither forgotten nor forgiven? Could he be faithfully guarding the land that he loved so dearly? Could this all be a bunch of hooey? Who knows.

But wait, there’s more! As if the legend of the phantom is not creepy enough, there’s more. Want to know the rumor behind why they never sandblasted him from this current spot? Because they were afraid he would move down to the door and come into the building. WHAT?!? Well, I guess that makes some kind of twisted sense, since he has moved down 2 levels already. Next stop – the black door. {chills} Man, I love a good ghost story!

So there you have it. Is it true? Who could possibly know for sure? It’s more a matter of belief. Do you believe in phantoms or legends or ghosts? Do you have a story to share about a phantom sighting? Or do you think it’s all a bunch of hysterical nonsense? As the saying goes, “Only the Phantom knows!”

Note: Special thanks to The Complete Package (my beloved husband) for providing the photos in this story. His recent motorcycle ride to Galveston to see this local legend with his own eyes provided the inspiration for this post.

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November 21, 2011 · 7:45 AM

Prague – The Food

I’m still going through vacation photos; sorting them out and reliving our trip. As I am, I realized it only seems fair to post a few photos of some of the food we tried in Prague. I mean, Istanbul got a food post. And The Netherlands got a good bit of attention with Claudia’s herring and my beloved oliebollen. So, in the interest of all things fair and right and foodie, here are a few of the food snaps I managed to take before stuffing my face. Note to self: I really need to work on that whole ‘pause, show some restraint, photograph, then eat’ system.

The first thing you need to know about food in Prague is that it tastes better when you eat it in a quaint neighborhood beer garden like this one.

You can't beat the food or fun offered at a neighborhood beer garden

And it’s even better if your neighborhood beer garden is rowdy and festive and brightly painted, and has great beer and live music.

Who could possibly resist this place? Or polka music?

Not much of a beer drinker? How about a cup of piping hot honey wine, then?

Honey Wine vendor at Old Town Square

I’ll warn you – it tastes a little like a hot, oaky chardonnay but with a healthy dose of paint stripper and Nyquil. And not the good cherry Nyquil, either. Gird your loins, kids. This stuff packs a punch. It was warming and sweet at the first sip. It was punching me in the gut and trying to steal my wallet by the last. Frankly, they could have sold a lot more of it if they’d just served it up in one of these beauties. That little bit of marketing genius is free, honey wine man.

I'm guessing everything tastes better in hand cut Czech glass. Pinkies up!

You know what else is really attractive (to me, anyway)? Big honkin’ hams smoking on an open fire pit. I can’t look at this stuff without wondering where the big pan of biscuits is hiding. Yes, I’m southern. Why do you ask, darlin’?

This is Old Prague Ham and That is the Old Prague Ham Master

I could go into the history of Old Prague Ham, but frankly I don’t care how it got here. I just want it really bad and I can’t stay focused on anything other than its smoky goodness long enough to put any more effort into it. Here’s what you need to know – it’s gorgeous and it smells like smoky meat heaven. Period.

Don't you wish you had smell-o-vision right now?

But wait! There’s more! The OPH man also sells sausages with rye bread and spicy mustard. AND kraut with little Czech dumplings and chunks of smoked ham in it. And Nestea, evidently.

Oh yeah, baby. We're about to get our Eastern European on!

The sausage was tasty and the bread was lovely and that kraut was a work of art, but let’s talk about the ham for a minute. Stay with me.

I would eat this on a boat. I would eat this on a float. I would eat this in a car...

Now, I know what you’re thinking. You’re thinking, “Dang! That’s a lot of smoky ham!” And you’d be right. Which brings me to my one and only tourist rip-off cautionary tale from our trip. The sign above the Old Prague Ham quotes a price. A very reasonable price. What you won’t notice (because I swear it didn’t say it anywhere) is that the quoted price is for a certain size portion of ham and that OPH is sold by weight. So unless you step up and say, “I’ll take the 80 Czech crown portion” (which translates to roughly $4.00 US), they will give you a giant plate of ham and tell you it’s 200 crowns (here, I’ll do the math – that’s $10.00 US). Now, ten dollars isn’t going to break anyone’s piggy bank, but what it will do is feed everyone standing within 10 feet of you. And that’s 10 feet of space in Old Town Square where all the tourists mingle in close proximity. I ate ham. The Complete Package tried the ham. The four Asian tourists sharing our tiny cocktail table were invited to try ham, but giggled at the absurdity of the size of my ham plate and politely declined. So instead, it fed two young homeless men who were scrounging through a garbage bin rescuing bread that others had tossed aside, and it also fed their little dog. Little dog got that crusty piece of ham skin, and he totally rocked it. Which leads me to my last two bits of advice about Old Prague Ham.

1. Too much Old Prague Ham may lead to massive stomach cramping and over-consumption of anti-diahrreal medications. It may also cause you to curse the day you ever laid eyes on 200 crowns worth of OPH, and say things to yourself like, “I’m sorry, Istanbul. I packed that Immodium assuming that I’d be sharing it with you. But I was wrong. So wrong. Please forgive me.”

2. If the wish I threw into that wishing well comes true and I do, indeed, return to Prague some day, I’m having what TCP had.

Because that's the way *uh huh uh huh* we like it

And now for something sweet. While at Prague Castle, a smell danced past my nostrils that was so intoxicating, I found myself drifting toward it much like those old cartoons where the besotted floats above the ground being pulled in a trance-like state towards something irresistible.

One whiff, and you'll want to hand over your wallet & credit cards

In this case, it was trdlo. I know. It’s an odd name. But what it lacks in vowels, it more than makes up for in aroma and flavor. Imagine the smell of warm cinnamon sugared toast. Picture the texture of soft warm white bread hot out of the oven. Now imagine the combination of those two things – a warm, soft cylinder of piping hot bread, enrobed in a crunchy cinnamon sugar hug.

Trdlo stands draw crowds of visitors, all following their noses

Here’s how it works. Bread dough is rolled into a thin rope and wrapped around a metal cylinder. A board is sprinkled with sugar crystals and cinnamon, and the cylinder is rolled through it, as though rolling out a pie crust or pizza dough. Rolling helps to flatten the dough onto the cylinder and helps the sugar/cinnamon mixture stick to the dough. The cylinders are then placed one at a time onto a special rack over a hot fire.

This stuff is heavenly, which makes those holy rollers

As each trdlo is taken off on one end, another new one is added at the other end. By the time each cylinder makes it across the fire, it is perfectly golden and ready to eat. Each roll is broken in half, forming two beautiful golden cuffs of deliciousness. If they weren’t so darned irresistible, I’d wear them like bangles on both wrists. So not kidding.

Another sweet treat was our stroll through the small but interesting History of Chocolate Museum. It’s tiny and kind of kitschy, but also fun. Your reward for paying the entrance fee is the live chocolate making demonstration, where a candy shop employee shows you the steps to making hazelnut creme filled chocolate stars.

The live chocolate making demonstration in progress

Oh, the magnificent aroma of that chocolate room. It’s so strong and so heavenly, it seems to permeate every cell of your body for at least 20 minutes. If I could bottle it as perfume, I could buy a summer castle in Prague. It was glorious. If you’re into tasting over smelling, the pay-off comes at the end of the demonstration when you get to sample the goods.

Twinkle twinkle little star, cuter than a Hershey Bar

And while I’ve always made it a practice not to publish photos of myself or TCP, he did manage to snap a shot of me coming out of the tasting room. It’s not flattering by any means, but what are you gonna do? Sometimes the truth hurts.

Oh, snap! I was sure NanaBread was a brunette!

Prague is primarily known for it’s pork dishes and dumplings, but there were a few culinary surprises. Take this appetizer, for example.

Fried Sardines & a cold Pilsner - TCP was one happy cat!

I don’t heart stinky fish, but The Complete Package does and he was tickled to pieces with this plate of sardines, fried up crispy and dipped in mayonnaise. And for the record, that’s not lumpy American mayo from a jar. That’s the good stuff. The homemade version. And if you ever eat it (especially on fries while in Europe), you will never look back. I think TCP could have sat in this little Italian cafe and eaten sardines all day long. The beer didn’t hurt, either.

And then there was this steaming platter of Spaghetti Carbonara. It was lovely, but it tasted even better than it looked.

Proof that everything is better with bacon

This was TCP’s lunch. I was hoping he’d filled up on stinky fish, but no such luck. Evidently he was just getting started. But I did get one bite, and it was tasty. Don’t feel bad for me, folks. Mama didn’t raise no fool. I did my research and knew October was at the peak of the wild mushroom harvest season. So guess what I ordered?

Read it and weep - Wild Mushroom Risotto

Oh, yeah. It was creamy. It was earthy. And it was fabulous. Which reinforces what I’ve said all along. When you travel, give yourself a gift you’ll always cherish. Try local foods. Immerse yourself in local customs. Try to live, as much as possible, as a local instead of a tourist and you will create memories that will last a lifetime. And, truth be told, that works just as well when traveling to other states as it does abroad.

If you missed the Prague post, you can click here for a shortcut.

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November 15, 2011 · 10:21 AM

Vacation Photos, Week 3 – Prague

A violinist serenades tourists on Ke Hradu below Prague Castle

Words cannot capture the beauty of Prague. Simply put, it is breathtaking. It’s also romantic, historic and magical. Every day in Prague offers yet another opportunity to take a scenic walk back in time. From Prague Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral, to the Old Town Square with its gorgeous old churches and Astronomical clock, Prague offers visitors a chance to recapture history, from medieval times to the present day. And each step of the way, the Czech people have beautifully and lovingly preserved that history. Everywhere you look, you will find something to take your breath away. Prague has to be among the most beautiful cities in the world. Take a look, and see if you don’t agree.

The charming & historic Charles Bridge over the Vltava River at sunset

Prague Castle & the Mala Strana at sunset, from the Charles Bridge

An afternoon stroll into Old Town Square

One of the most spectacular timepieces in the world - The Astronomical Clock

A close-up of the fascinating faces of Prague's Astronomical Clock, built in 1410

An example of Prague's beautiful sgraffiti buildings

Beauty is everywhere in Prague; sometimes in unexpected places

The serene and uncrowded gardens of Prague Castle

A view of St. Vitus Cathedral at Prague Castle from the top of the hill

St. Vitus Cathedral at Prague Castle

The ornate tomb of King Wenceslas I, St. Vitus Cathedral

Alfons Mucha's stunning stained glass window in St. Vitus Cathedral

The tomb of St. John of Nepomuk, a beloved Czech national saint

View of the courtyard from the St. Vitus Cathedral Bell Tower

Prague as seen from Prague Castle; Charles Bridge at center of photo

The Zamecke Schody - the stairs below Prague Castle

The Senate & Gardens in the Mala Strana District

The Loreto's stunning Church of the Nativity

Prague at night is romantic, enchanting and magical

Prague's pastel buildings & orange tile roofs paint a pretty picture

St Nicholas Church, a Baroque gem in Old Town Square

Our Lady of Tyn Church seen from the Astronomical Clock Tower

If you dream of traveling the world and keep a list of “must see” places, you must add Prague to that list. From the friendliness of the Czech people to the stunning architecture, from their rich history to their young independence, Prague and the Czech Republic truly are a treasure; one I hope you’ll experience for yourself very soon.

This trip to Europe was a dream come true. To see more from this series:
Week 1, Netherlands – click here
Week 2, Istanbul – click here
Istanbul – The Food, click here

As always, all of the photos included in this blog were taken by me and are my sole property. Use without expressed written permission is strictly prohibited. Contact information, if needed, is listed in the ‘About’ page of this blog.

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November 11, 2011 · 9:00 AM

Istanbul – The Food

Turkish Baklava & Turkish Delight - delight is an understatement


The problem with blogging about vacation food is remembering to snap photos before you start eating. If you lose focus and get carried away with the fabulous dish in front of you, you’re faced with nothing but memories. That said, I had every intention of documenting all of the regional cuisine we sampled while in Istanbul. I was not entirely successful. I was able to snap a few though, and here they are – for your enjoyment. While it’s obviously not the same as being there, until they develop scratch-n-sniff computing it’s the best I can offer. Suffice it to say, the food was every bit as good (in most cases better) than it looks.

Buffet Lunch in Sultanahmet - varied, traditional & incredibly flavorful

This buffet lunch was one of our first meals in Istanbul. It was in a tiny family owned restaurant in the ancient Sultanahmet section of town, almost next door to our hotel. The manager greeted us at the door and took the time to explain what each dish on the buffet was and how it was made. We then picked the dishes that sounded interesting and waited for them to prepare our plate. Among the dishes we sampled – stuffed bell peppers, eggplant tangine, spicy green beans, a baked squash and tomato casserole, a seasoned rice, and lamb from the rotating kebab spit. Verdict: a perfect introduction of the week to come. It was varied, flavorful, traditionally Turkish, and as warm as the people who served it.

Lunch on the Run - a street vendor doner kebab & a cold ayran

There are a myriad of options for meals on the run. Our favorite was the doner kebab. Each vendor serves a different version, and each version is delicious. This was one of the first of our many doner kebabs. If you love doner kebab like we do, keep reading. Our favorite is listed below.

The Perfect Snack - dried fruits & nuts from the Spice Market

Know what’s better than gorgeous dried fruits & nuts in the exotic atmosphere of the ancient Egyptian Spice Market? Dried fruit stuffed with roasted nuts. We sampled the succulent apricots stuffed with almonds & the dates stuffed with pistachios. It’s a perfect “carry around while you shop the Spice Market” snack.

Simit - warm & smothered in toasted sesame seeds

Dear Simit, you look like a donut or a skinny bagel, but you are nothing like those imposters. You are warm and toasty; brushed with sesame oil and smothered in gloriously roasted sesame seeds. If you were smaller, I would wear you on my finger like a ring. A wedding ring.

Giant irresistible mounds of Turkish Delight in the Spice Market

There’s no escaping it. Turkish Delight is everywhere in Istanbul. There are almost as many varieties as there are shops selling it. Some are rolled into small square-shaped logs and dusted in superfine sugar. Some are rolled like a jellyroll and have the flavor and texture of a chewy marshmallow. But the best are made from honey & roasted pistachios and are more expensive than other varieties. Bottom line: they’re all good; some are better than most; you get what you pay for, so go for the good stuff. Also, try the pomegranate. It will rock your world.

A cold Efes Pilsner hits the spot on a warm day

The Complete Package will attest to the fact that I am not a beer drinker. What I miss out on, TCP makes up for. He enjoys a good beer, and loves to sample the local brews. However when we travel, I make it a point to try new things. Local things. Even exotic things I might never try at home. So I tried the local Efes Pilsner. And it was good. It’s even better on a warm day.

Picnic Supplies - a meat & cheese vendor in the Spice Market

I was blown away by the giant wheels of cheese and ceilings dripping with cured meats at the Spice Market. I don’t know why this surprised me, but it did. We saw shop after shop of dried fruits, Turkish Delight, and spices. But to come around a corner and see giant blocks of gorgeous cheese and big, beautiful cured sausages and salamis – well, it was a joy and an unexpected pleasure. My tip for travel food: ALWAYS try the local specialties. Even if it means crawling out of your box and your comfort zone. Life is an adventure, so live it!

Lunch on the Bosphorus - Olives in Lemon & Octopus Salad

Our lunch break on the Bosphorus was terrific. Sitting in a little cafe right on the water, eating seafood just pulled from the water by local fishermen – well, it was beyond memorable. We picked a handful of appetizers instead of a lunch plate, and we were not disappointed. Among our choices, olives brined with lemons and whole peppercorns and a lovely octopus salad. I can still taste it just looking at that photo. Followed with a hot cup of Turkish tea, it was a perfect meal.

Our favorite restaurant - The BarBecue House

The BarBecue House restaurant was conveniently located a few doors down from our hotel. We passed by it each time we walked to the trams on Divan Yolu Cadesi (the main street that runs past the Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque). Each time we passed, the engaging waiters would try to tempt us in for a meal, regardless of the time of day. With a lovely dining room upstairs, a lively dining room downstairs, and a charcoal grill right by the front door that was perpetually tempting us with the smell of grilled meats and fresh bread – well, let’s just say they didn’t have to sell it too hard. In all, we ate dinner here three times in six days, and we thoroughly enjoyed it each time. If you’re in Istanbul and looking for a meal near the Hagia Sophia, stop in and visit The BarBecue House. And tell Ramazan his friends from Houston say “Merhaba/Hello!”

Favorite Food - this doner kebab outside the Rustem Pasha Mosque

Every vacation produces a favorite dining experience. Usually, The Complete Package and I have differing opinions on what that favorite meal was. In this case, we agreed. Hands down. Our favorite meal was this fantastic doner kebab from a small stand outside the entrance to the ancient Rustem Pasha Mosque near the Spice Market. It had everything the perfect doner kebab should have – warm, lovely bread, lamb sliced right off the rotating spit, a creamy yogurt sauce, fresh tomato slices, some thinly sliced onion, and in this case – golden french fries. But the frosting on the cupcake, the cherry on top of the sundae, was the addition of a few blazing hot chili peppers set out on the dining tables. This was one of those sandwiches that had you rolling your eyes back in your head and moaning with delight. As we washed it down with two cold ayrans (a salty yogurt drink), we both leaned back in our chairs and simultaneously said, “Now THAT was one fabulous sandwich.” It was all we could do to walk away and keep sightseeing. If we’d hesitated even 5 minutes, we would have ordered another one and done it all over again.

And that, my friends, is the best reason to immerse yourself in the place you are visiting. You never know when something will surprise you. Do yourself a favor. Try the real cuisine, not the fast food joints that are sprinkled about more and more cities around the world these days. You can have those things at home. Take a chance and enjoy the best your destination has to offer… while you can.

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November 6, 2011 · 9:08 PM

Vacations Photos, Week 2 – Istanbul

The Hagia Sophia at dusk, as seen from our hotel window


Istanbul, Turkey – it’s ancient, historic, exotic, friendly, and awe-inspiring. It was Week Two of our 3-week vacation abroad. Why did we choose to include Istanbul? Because it was at the top of The Complete Package’s travel bucket list. It was his dream location. And since I got my German Christmas Markets trip last year, it was TCP’s turn to live out a travel dream.

We took thousands of photos in Istanbul, which speaks to the fact that it is one of the world’s great cities. The kind everyone should see at least once in their lifetime. This post is devoted to the highlights from Istanbul. I promise to post more photos over the next week to fill in the gaps on topics like shopping in the bazaars, the fabulous food, ancient sites, and our cruise on the Bosphorus. Words don’t do this city justice, so for now here are some of the highlights. I hope you are as blown away as we were. Istanbul was fabulous.

Click on any photo to enlarge, then use the back button to return to the blog.

The Hagia Sophia and park fountains at night

Interior of the Hagia Sophia from the upper gallery

The stunning ceilings of the Hagia Sophia

Example of the Byzantine mosaics in the Hagia Sophia

A view of the Blue Mosque through the domes of the Hagia Sophia

While the Hagia Sophia is dark, the Blue Mosque is bathed in light

Soaring domes and endless windows brighten the Blue Mosque

Every inch of the Blue Mosque appears to covered in colorful tiles

Topkapi Palace on a gray day is still just as lovely

The serene grounds of Topkapi Palace overlook the Bosphorus

An ornate door at Topkapi Palace. Understated? Hardly.

Topkapi's gorgeous Iznik tiles never fail to impress

The Basilica Cistern - Istanbul's underground treasure

The Egyptian Spice Market - selling exotic spices since the 1600's

The endless stalls of the Grand Bazaar are a visual feast

Traditional Turkish rugs are among the world's finest

Ferries help connect Europe and Asia as Istanbul spans two continents

Colorful homes and quaint villages line the Bosphorus

The old man and the sea. The Black Sea.

Everything in Istanbul is a delight. As is Turkish Delight.

That’s all for now, but don’t worry. There will be more to come throughout the week. If you have any questions, drop me a comment and I’ll answer as quickly as possible. Also, these photos and all others that appear on this blog were taken by me unless otherwise specified. All photos are the sole property of me, The Complete Package, and Inside NanaBread’s Head Blog. Use without written permission is prohibited. Contact info is provided on my “About” page.

For those who are anxious to see Week 3 in Prague, hang in there! It’s up next week, and you won’t want to miss it.

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November 4, 2011 · 1:29 PM

The Oliebollen Bird

That shot of me sharing an oliebollen at Schipol Airport in Amsterdam from my last post was so popular, I thought I’d treat you to more from the series. These were taken by The Complete Package with his new pocket camera. Turns out it has a really cool rapid-capture sports mode that captured our little friend perfectly. So without further ado, I give you The Oliebollen Bird.

If you want to have some fun, use your down arrow to scroll through them quickly. It’s like a poor man’s version of a home movie. For even more fun, once you get to the bottom, use your up arrow key to scroll back through them backwards and see the bird fly in reverse. If you listen closely, you can hear the bird say “Paul is dead.” And if you’re too young to get that joke, do me a favor and keep it to yourself {wink}.

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November 2, 2011 · 3:41 PM

Vacation Photos, Set 1 – Netherlands

This is Claudia. She makes me smile. She makes me laugh. Hi, Claudia.

Remember this face. It’s such a nice face. This face belongs to Claudia. Wonderful, funny, enchanting Claudia. She’s a reader of my blog and a resident of The Netherlands. Remember this face. She’ll be joining us again shortly.

I love to travel. Love, love, love it. And three weeks is a long time to be away from home, even for us. It’s a long time to be away from our kids. It’s a long time to be away from our sweet old smushy faced dog. But you know what? It’s a great gig if you can get it. Our three weeks away started with a business trip to The Netherlands for The Complete Package. The dates for his week-long business meetings came up sort of suddenly, but we were totally up for the challenge. And since his company was paying for his round-trip flights and hotel accommodations, we weren’t about to pass up this opportunity. I mean, he’s already going to Europe, right? So why not?

First up, business meetings in Den Haag (The Hague). If you’re a regular reader of this blog, you may remember that we were here last November as a first leg to our infamous German Christmas Markets Adventure. Boy, that was a great trip. This year, we found ourselves back in The Hague for a week and back at the Hilton Den Haag. If you’re visiting The Netherlands, I highly recommend it.

The Hague Hilton - what a lovely place to stay

I know I said this last year, but I L-O-V-E this hotel. The building is fantastic. The location is superb. The rooms are spacious. The bathrooms are luxurious. And the staff is friendly and helpful and engaging. It really is a dream hotel. And their beds are to die for. If I lived here, I’d rarely get out of this bed.

Big, fluffy king-size beds - the stuff dreams are made of

Just like last year, I planned to spend my days sightseeing and shopping while TCP slaved over a hot laptop, working (as usual, he would say). There are endless streets filled with countless shops, cafes, museums and interesting architecture in The Hague. There is just so much to discover here.

Sorry to hear about your demise but I love your view, Mr. DeWitt.

The Peace Palace - no photos inside, but it's a jaw-dropping type of gorgeous

The Royal Palace of Queen Beatrix of the Netherlands, right by the hotel

The Rizzerdaal (Hall of Knights) and its gorgeous gilded fountain

Restaurants on the shore of the North Sea at Schevenigen

The historic Kurhaus Hotel on Scheveningen's North Sea shore

As you can see, it’s beautiful here. And of the European cities we’ve visited, The Hague is the one I feel most at home in. I love it here. It’s a tranquil, historic, lovely place and the people are every bit as lovely.

And that brings me to Claudia. Dear Claudia. Last year, after I posted photos of our trip to The Netherlands and declared my undying love of oliebollen – (Dutch donuts), Claudia left a comment on my blog inviting me to spend a day with her in Rotterdam the next time I returned. What a fabulous invitation! This year as we planned our trip, I remembered Claudia’s offer and sent her an e-mail. True to her word, Claudia offered to take a day off and show me Rotterdam. Tuesday was a good day for her, and as luck would have it, TCP’s company scheduled late meetings and team activities on Tuesday. Perfect. And just like that, the stars aligned and I had a date to tour Rotterdam with Claudia. I can’t say this enough: I love my readers! So, let’s get back to this face.

This is Claudia smiling. Claudia has a very nice smile.

On Tuesday morning, I could hardly control my excitement. We’d exchanged photos prior to the trip so I’d know who to look for and she’d know not to let the wrong stranger get into her car. As soon as she pulled up, she jumped out of the car with a big smile on her face. What a great and accurate first impression. Claudia always has a smile on her face, and I love that about her. She whisked me away for a day in Rotterdam, and we spent the entire day smiling and laughing.

The real Claudia - always laughing. This is how I always think of her.

Our day started at a beautiful little cafe for coffee. Do you know what I love about Dutch cafes? They serve their coffee with little speculaas cookies. They’re spicy shortbread cookies usually shaped like windmills, and they are perfect for coffee dunking. You should know this in case you visit. Nobody does little gingerbread-style cookies like the Dutch. Seriously. Fuhgeddaboudit.

The best part of waking up is speculaas and a coffee cup!

The only thing that beats a good cup of coffee in a lovely cafe is a good cup of coffee with a new friend in a lovely cafe that overlooks a quaint harbor full of boats. This was our view from the cafe window. Nice, huh?

My local Starbucks does NOT offer a view like this. Not even close.

I'm in love with this boat. Think it will fit in my carry-on?

After coffee, we set out on foot to explore Rotterdam. Our walk took us along the banks of the Nieuwe Maas past the Maastunnel. I would love to have been a fly on the wall when this marvel was built. Opened in 1942, it is a deep tunnel used by pedestrians and cyclists to cross the river. And when I say it’s deep under ground, I’m not joking. I got a touch of vertigo just looking at the escalator that leads to the tunnel.

Maastunnel Entry Mural - depicting commuters in 1942

Steep escalator - I'm woozy & this girl is texting AND holding a bike

The tunnel is 20 meters (approx 65 feet) below sea level.

Our next stop was the Euromast tower to take in the sweeping panoramic views of Rotterdam. Sadly, the observation platform was closed when we were there, but we were able to visit the restaurant instead, and the 360-degree views of Rotterdam were spectacular. Unfortunately, most of those photos came out gray due to the rain. No worries, though. The rain cleared as the day progressed.

The Euromast on a rainy morning is just as tall.

Lovely park view from the Euromast tower

Same house & gardens seen from the Euromast, from ground level

So we’ve taken the steep escalator down into the Maastunnel, and we’ve ascended to the heavens in the Eurotmast to see Rotterdam from the clouds. What’s next? The scariest part of the day (for me, anyway). Tackling Claudia’s promise to introduce me to a traditional Dutch treat – raw herring. You heard me. Raw. Herring. To help calm my nerves, we ordered white wine with our lunch. So here’s how it went down:

She took me to this lovely little shop where it was obvious they took great pride in their fresh seafood. It really was a delightful shop, and I was starting to feel a little better about what what going to happen here.

The plethora of fresh seafood dazzled me and lured me in.


As we browsed the menu boards, Claudia suggested a sampling of Dutch delicacies. I let her do the ordering while I secured the last remaining cocktail table for our lunch. She’s the local, so that makes her the expert here.

She knows I'm nervous about the herring. She suspects I want to run.

I've just promised that I won't run or throw up on the table. Maybe.

First up, the dreaded much-hearalded raw herring in sandwich (broodjes) form, followed by a plate of fried fish (cod, I think) which was fabulous.

Raw herring sandwich. Makes the fried fish & wine look better, doesn't it?

Claudia loves herring so much she strokes it & whispers sweet nothings to it.

I’m just kidding about the heavy fish petting and sweet nothings. Actually, I think she was just wiping something off of it, but I got a good chuckle over the idea of her enjoying that fish a little too much. Cutting off about one inch of herring, Claudia handed over the fork and I was faced with my first raw herring.

If I haven’t mentioned it before, I get a little weak in the knees at the prospect of eating herring. I can trace it directly back to a bad experience involving my dad, a dish of pickled herring in a dill & sour cream sauce, and a German restaurant in Fort Smith, Arkansas. I tried one bite and almost threw up on the table. I was horrified. It was awful (the fish AND the experience). Check a map. Fort Smith, Arkansas is land locked. It is nowhere near a source of fresh herring.

I vowed to never let herring cross my lips again, and yet here I was with Claudia – smiling and laughing and drinking wine and staring down a piece of RAW herring on a fork. So I tried it, and you know what? I didn’t throw up. I didn’t even gag a little. More than that, I found it interesting in texture and flavor. Why, I’d even go so far as to proclaim that it was okay! Would I eat one again? Maybe not. But maybe I would. Especially if Claudia was there urging me to trust her. Because I do trust her. And I did enjoy trying all of it.

Oh, I forgot mention she also ordered a cocktail of the teeniest but tastiest local shrimp (garnaal). Mmmm… now these I would definitely eat again. I think I’d eat them from a jar. I think I’d eat them in a car. I think I’d follow them with jam. I love these garnaal, Sam-I-Am!

Don't let their size fool you. These tiny shrimp are packed with flavor.

Now here’s where my blogging photography gets sloppy. After our wine and seafood lunch, we walked to a fabulous museum and took in a plethora of local Dutch paintings, sculpture, pottery & glass, and even furniture and home accessories. It was all lovely, as was our coffee break in the museum cafe. But it seems I took very few photos inside the museum, so we’ll just have to skip to our ride through the harbor and across the river.

Our sweet ride - a water taxi through Rotterdam

A view of Rotterdam from our water taxi ride

Sailboats, fishing boats, tug boats - so many beautiful boats

Our water taxi takes us across the Niewe Maas to the opposite side of the river, across from where our tour started this morning. As we pull up to the dock, I notice the beautiful old building that now houses the Hotel New York.

The grand old building that now houses the Hotel New York

What makes this building notable is not the hotel, although the Hotel New York captures the spirit of the building. It’s the history that makes it special.

The former headquarters of the Holland America Line

Rotterdam has been a point of embarkation for passengers seeking a future in the New World since the 1620’s and the Holland America Line has been transporting pilgrims since the 1880’s. This beautiful building is the Dutch counterpart to Ellis Island in New York. From here, families loaded their hopes and dreams onto Holland America ships and headed to points far and wide seeking new lives. Now, Holland America is known as one of the world’s leading cruise lines and their former headquarters house the Hotel New York and a lovingly restored space that now serves as a bar and restaurant. As our day wound to a close, Claudia and I stopped here for high tea. And that’s where this photo of Claudia comes back into play. It was taken just before tea.

Thank you for a wonderful day, Claudia.

After tea, we walked back across a nearby expansion bridge just as the sun was setting over Rotterdam. It was a perfect ending to a perfect day.

The sun sets over Rotterdam, but a new friendship dawns

We drank coffee, we sampled local delicacies, we took in spectacular views and stunning art. We walked under the river via the Maastunnel, we crossed over the river in a water taxi, and we ended with a sunset stroll over the bridge. And I enjoyed every single second of it. In fact, words fail to capture just how much I enjoyed Claudia’s company. I will be forever grateful that she found my blog, that we started a dialog over olibollen, and that she invited me to spend a day learning more about her city. But the greatest part of the day was gaining a new friend. A lovely, funny friend whom I will cherish forever.

And speaking of oliebollen, Claudia informed me just before we arrived that oliebollen, those awe-inspiring Dutch donuts I fell in love with last November, are a seasonal holiday treat. As such, oliebollen stands do not open until early November. I think she could sense the utter devastation in my response to her e-mail. I was heartbroken, since I had informed her that my favorite oliebollen stand would be the first stop once we got checked in at the hotel. Not one to be deterred, Claudia knew that we would be spending one last night in Amsterdam at the end of our vacation. When we left The Netherlands for other destinations in Europe, she contacted the local tourism bureau to inquire if any oliebollen stands would open early enough for our night in Amsterdam. Wow. Most people would say, “maybe next time.” Claudia e-mailed to tell me about stands opening early. Now that is a true friend.

And so, I’ll end this first chapter of our travels with one final treat from The Netherlands. Okay, two. First, The Complete Package enjoyed his favorite Dutch side dish – frites with mayonnaise. Don’t knock the mayonnaise until you’ve tried it. This ain’t no Hellman’s, baby. This is the good stuff.

Pomme frites with mayonnaise - TCP's ever-lovin' favorite

And just when I thought all was lost, look what I found at Schipol Airport:

That's right, baby! The oliebollerie is open for business!

And hot ones were coming out of the fryer as we walked up

But they're not done until they're coated in powdered sugar

And since Claudia wasn’t there to share them with me, I shared them with The Complete Package and another new friend.

I met someone who loves oliebollen like I do. I shall call her Claudia.

I wish Claudia could have seen me standing there, snarfing down hot oliebollen, covered in powdered sugar. I’m pretty sure I know how she would have reacted.

Yep. That's exactly how I picture Claudia's response.

Up next, The Complete Package and I live one of his travel fantasies – a week in Istanbul, Turkey. It was ancient. It was exotic. It was fabulous. And you will not want to miss those photos, so stay tuned!

Special thanks to our friends Kaki & Donny for taking such good care of Ziggy while we were away. And thanks to our other friends Pat & Carl who were willing to take Zigman if needed. Your care of our sweet boy is what allows us to travel worry-free, and for that we are forever grateful. Truly.

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October 24, 2011 · 9:08 AM

I’m baaaaaaack!

Thank you dear readers for your patience and support while I took a little time off from blogging. The Complete Package and I took three weeks off to explore Europe on what could easily be classified as the “trip of a lifetime.” Wondering where we went? Okay, I’ll tell you anyway {wink}.

First, we went here:

The Peace Palace - Den Haag (The Hague), Netherlands

The Hall of Knights - Den Haag (The Hague), Netherlands

Inside the Hall of Knights - Den Haag (The Hague), Netherlands

As a special bonus during our week in The Netherlands, I got to meet and spend a day with one of my blog readers, Claudia. Together, we spent a fabulously fun day in Rotterdam. It’s a day I will never forget, and I’ll be sharing more about it in a later post. (Hi, Claudia! Love you!)

Then we went here:

The Hagia Sophia - Istanbul, Turkey

Inside the Blue Mosque - Istanbul, Turkey

Shopping at the ancient Spice Market - Istanbul, Turkey

Istanbul was a revelation. It has been on The Complete Package’s travel wish list for years. I’ll admit, I had some reservations but I was not going to let them stop me from going. And now that I’ve been? Well, let’s just say I couldn’t have been more ignorant or wrong. Istanbul was fabulous and friendly and ancient and fascinating, and I LOVED it. My heart breaks for the victims of last week’s earthquake in eastern Turkey and my prayers are with them all.

And finally, we went here:

St. Nicholas Church, Bridge Tower & Castle - Prague, Czech Republic

Senate Building & Gardens - Prague, Czech Republic

A Sunset Walk below Prague Castle - Prague, Czech Republic

Prague was gorgeous. There is something lovely and ancient around every corner. I don’t think I’ve seen a better collection of fabulously ornate churches since Paris, and I’m not sure some of Prague’s aren’t better. Take the St. Vitus Cathedral at Prague Castle, for instance. Holy cow (pun intended). Words can hardly describe it, so I’ll be sharing more photos later. Lots of photos.

Speaking of photos, we took over 7,000 of them in our three weeks away. I’ll need some time to go through them all, but once I do I’ll be posting separate stories for each of the cities we visited and I’ll also be sharing my day with Claudia in Rotterdam.

Which brings me to one last point I want to share. Blogging gives me the opportunity to share some of the craziness that floats randomly through my brain, and I love that you not only allow me to do it, you seem to enjoy reading along. But my favorite thing about blogging, hands down, is the friends I’ve made along the way. You, my dear readers, are why I keep writing. I love your input, your comments and your support. So thank you for sticking with me, for allowing me to take a few weeks off to enjoy some very special time with TCP, and for coming back again and again. I love you more than chocolate. And you know how much I love chocolate.

So stay tuned, kids! I’m going through photos and trying to wrap my head around the past three weeks. Once I do, we’ll be off to the races with tons of photos and stories to share. It’s good to be back!

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September 5, 2011 · 7:22 AM

Galveston Day Trip: Seafood, Pie, Historic Mansions & a Wedding Teaser

The Complete Package and I spent a day in Galveston, although it was not entirely the day we’d planned. Our intent was to check out the second annual Brewmasters Craft Beer Festival, but we never got that far. Tragic, right? Well, no. Not really. We may have gotten sidetracked, but we still had a great time.

Shrimp 'N Stuff - it's not fancy, but it is delicious!

It started with the one hour drive to Galveston. We timed it to arrive around noon. Why? Because we couldn’t miss the chance to visit our favorite seafood place – Shrimp ‘N Stuff. This place is billed as “where the locals eat” and while that may be true, a lot of informed tourists make it by, too. On a typical Saturday, you will have to search out an empty table and wait as long as half an hour for your food, but you won’t find anyone complaining. Everything at Shrimp ‘N Stuff is fresh. Fresh seafood. Fresh sides. Made fresh by a staff that is always kept hopping. While the rest of the tourists flood the seawall for the more expensive, more commercial seafood restaurants, the smart ones are hanging out at Shrimp ‘N Stuff eating great food at unbeatable prices. Why, I feel smarter and more stuffed already.

A seafood feast at Shrimp 'N Stuff

Speaking of stuffed, I had the fried catfish plate – 2 large pieces of catfish, fries, hushpuppies and coleslaw – all for $7.39. I added a large iced tea and a piece of key lime pie, so my total was around $12.00. I couldn’t finish any of it (except for the pie), and it was still a bargain. TCP had the seafood combo po-boy sandwich (also $7.39) with fries, an iced tea, and a side order of hushpuppies. His total came out to around $12.00, as well. For the record, my fish plate was not twice the size of his sandwich. It’s just the angle of the photo. I swear. No, really! Shrimp ‘N Stuff is located at 39th and “O”, south of Broadway. www.shrimpnstuff.com

After lunch, we took a leisurely (okay, slow) drive down Broadway, Galveston’s main thoroughfare as you arrive on the island. While I miss the gorgeous 100 year-old live oaks along Broadway that were lost during Hurricane Ike, I still love the beautiful old homes and historic Victorian architecture.

Ashton Villa - built in 1858, it is a Galveston gem

Our first stop was Ashton Villa. It was among the first “palaces” built in Galveston and is thought to be the first brick home built in Texas (1858). Although the home is not open for tours, they do have a Galveston Visitor’s Center in the old garage where you can pick up maps and tourist information. But we dropped in for another reason.

Jonah Bear & Kaki

Our friend Kaki (Jonah Bear’s swim teacher, Ziggy’s babysitter, Bunco pal and all-around bestie) is getting married here next weekend. At 50+, our beloved Kaki has found her Prince Charming (Don) and will be tying the knot in this very mansion in 5 days. We couldn’t be more excited for them. It just confirms the belief that there is a perfect someone for everyone, and that someone may find you at any time and any age if you’re open to it. There’s a whole “small world” story behind how they got together. Some day, with their help, I’ll share it with you. For now, I’ll just say that it involved Nascar and a friend called “Boomer”. How’s that for a teaser?

The Bishop's Palace - a Galveston icon

Next up, we visited The Bishop’s Palace. I’ve lived in the Houston area for 21 years, and I have no idea why it took me so long to tour this place. It’s an iconic landmark on Galveston Island. Built in 1892 for the Gresham family, this home was one of the few that survived the great hurricane of 1901. In fact, on the tour you will see a framed photo of the home surrounded in mounds of debris from where most of the island was destroyed. There’s a good reason for that – the home is made of solid stone walls 23″ thick. That always helps in high winds. And it’s all Texas stone, too. The home’s facade is made entirely from native red sandstone, white limestone and granite.

Love those verandahs

While the home’s exterior is surrounded in lovely verandahs, ornate chimneys and gorgeous stained glass, the interior is dripping in Victorian elegance. Each room on the main floor features a different wood in the paneling and fireplace, and each room has some architectural gem that was a first of its kind. The main staircase is a marvel, with a center fireplace built in, stained glass windows as you ascend, and a 3-story octagon shaped rotunda above. It is glorious. Frankly, now that I’ve been inside I think I’m more in awe of the architect, Nicholas Clayton, than I am with the family who had it built. Gresham may have had the money, but Clayton was clearly the visionary. While the home was originally called Gresham Castle, it was sold to the Catholic Church in 1920, and became known as Bishop’s Palace when the bishop moved in from 1920-1950. The home is still owned by the church, but is supported and maintained solely through the revenue from public tours and donations. If you visit Galveston, this should definitely be on your “must see” list. For more information and a few interior photos, click here.

So back to the Brewmaster International Beer Festival. Because of Tropical Storm Lee, winds in Galveston were gusting at up to 40 miles per hour creating whitecaps across Galveston Bay and blowing debris around like tumbleweeds. Somehow, standing in that wind at an outdoor festival just to sample a few craft beers wasn’t so appealing. I apologize to the organizers for whimping out, but I promise to try again next year and I’m happy to include the link to their website for anyone who may be interested in attending in the future. If I see you there next year, I’ll buy you a beer.

For more information on visiting Galveston, try these links:
www.galveston.com
Shrimp ‘N Stuff Restaurant
The Galveston Historical Foundation
Tour brochure of Galveston’s Oak Tree Sculptures (carved from old oaks damaged by Hurricane Ike; brochure will appear upside-down; scroll down)
Moody Gardens – Entertainment, Educational & Convention Complex

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